French chefs puff with pride as fine cuisine gets UNESCO heritage mention
UNESCO’s experts have spoken: France’s traditional gastronomic meal, in which ritual is as important as the food itself, is now officially part of the world’s “intangible” heritage. French chefs are thrilled, but what of other culinary traditions?
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Photo published by Fotservis on Flickr.
UNESCO’s experts have spoken: France’s traditional gastronomic meal, in which ritual is as important as the food itself, is now officially part of the world’s “intangible” heritage. French chefs are thrilled, but what of other culinary traditions?
The UN committee, gathered in the Kenyan capital Nairobi last week, singled out French gastronomy as a "social custom aimed at celebrating the most important moments in the lives of individuals and groups".
More than just food, it’s the French “art de vivre” (art of living) which was commended: the choice of finest produce, of meticulous preparation and precise cooking of ingredients, how wines are paired with dishes, how the table is dressed – all are seen as a part of the ritual French gastronomic meal. It’s a victory for haute cuisine lobbyists who, backed by French President Nicolas Sarkozy, launched a campaign in 2008 for France to obtain the distinction.
Do you agree with UNESCO’s decision to include French food in its list of the world’s intangible cultural treasures? Tell us what you think by clicking on the “comment” button. Your opinions or questions might be used for the live TV debate show on Wednesday night at 7.10 p.m. Paris time on FRANCE 24.
“It’s a little pompous. French cuisine has to continue evolving and mixing with other cultures”
Estelle Tracy is a Franco-Turkish culinary blogger. She currently lives in the United States, and writes the blog The Croissant and the Hamburger (in French).
I found the addition of France’s gastronomic meal to the UNESCO world heritage list a little ironic. It seems pompous, formal and rigid, whereas French cuisine has to continue evolving and mixing with other cultures and styles. I’ve always loved fusion food the most.
For me, France’s cuisine is embodied by a rich variety of regional specialties. It is also very refined and technically precise. For example, take how the French and Americans make apple pie. Americans will thow in big chunks of apple and cover them with a think, crunchy crumble. The French, on the other hand, will delicately peel and cut the apples into thin, perfect slices, then carefully dispose them in a rose-shaped pattern on the dough. The dough itself is patiently kneaded into the perfect light, crispy texture. In short, French cuisine is good because the French love food: they love taking the time both to prepare and to eat it. That’s why American cooks use French words to designate preparations that don’t exist in American cuisine, like “chiffonade” [delicately crumpled cured ham] or “julienne” [thinly sliced vegetables cooked until they are still a little firm, yet tender].”
US-style apple pie. Posted on Flickr by Pillsbury.
French-style apple tart. Posted on Flickr by Greatfoodblog.com.
“Wherever you are in the world, when people talk about fine gastronomy, they think of France”
Bruno Ménard is Chef at the gastronomic French restaurant L’Osier (three Michelin stars), in Tokyo.
When we head the news, my colleagues and I uncorked a couple of bottles of champagne! I’m really very proud. Wherever you are in the world, when people talk about fine gastronomy, they think of France. There’s a reason why there’s no foreign equivalent to the French term of “art de la table”, literally the art of the table. This decision simply confirms our status as number one leaders in fine cuisine. It recognises the tremendous work accomplished by French chefs since the Renaissance!
In my view, other countries (but not all) would also deserve to be recognised by UNESCO. The traditional, celebratory Japanese meal, for example, also comes with a beautiful and refined ritual, and very delicate foods. Top Japanese chefs are masters in the art of selecting and preparing the freshest fish. On the other hand, Italian food (which I love, I’m certainly not denying its quality) is, for me, more of a family food. I associate it with big tables and a warm, friendly atmosphere, but not the refinement and the specific codes of a gastronomic meal."
Photo published by barbier.jp on Flickr
Post written with France 24 journalists Paul Larrouturrou and Lorena Galliot.