Islam

Saudi Arabia’s hidden city

Team Observers — Mon, 07 Sep 2009 18:07:08 +0200

The region of Qasr al-Bint in the city of Mada’in Saleh. Photo: Emmanuel Guyetand.

The grandiose Jordanian city of Petra, carved out of pink rock, is a first-rate tourist destination. So why has its twin city, in the Saudi desert, been forgotten for so long? Because it is said to be under an ancient curse.

This site, in the north-west of Saudi Arabia, is known in the West as Mada'in Saleh, or the towns of Saleh, from the name of the prophet who, according to the Koran, tried long before Mohammed to convert the Thamud tribe to the religion of one God. The town was however not built by the Thamudis, whose presence at this site is not proven archaeologically, but by the Nabateans. Mada'in Saleh constituted the southern point of their kingdom which prospered between the third century BC and the fourth century AD and stretched from the south of Jordan to the north of the Arabian peninsula. The Nabateans also built Petra, their political capital.

The region of Al-Khuraymat in the city of Mada'in Saleh. Photo: Emmanuel Guyetand.

Another view of Al-Khuraymat. Photo: Emmanuel Guyetand.

It was only at the start of the 20^th century that the exploration of this site began. However, very little work was undertaken until 2001, when a Franco-Saudi archaeological mission was given the task of carrying out digs and documenting the site. Mada'in Saleh was listed in July 2008 as a UNESCO World Heritage site, becoming the first Saudi site to feature.

Façade of a tomb. The monumental tombs were no doubt reserved for the notables of the town. Photo taken at Al-Khuraymat by Emmanuel Guyetand.

Funerary rock architecture at Al-Khuraymat. Photo: Emmanuel Guyetand.

What’s Ramadan like in your country?

Sophie Team Observers — Fri, 21 Aug 2009 17:08:03 +0200

Posted on Flickr by Raaid.

The month of Ramadan starts tomorrow (22 August). We asked our Observers from Algeria to Iraq to tell us what goes on in their country.

Ramadan is a month of fasting for Muslims. That means that between sunrise and sunset, you can't drink, you can't eat, and you can't have sex. Fasting is an exercise in purification. It's a demonstration of obedience to god, and a way of heightening your piety by following the ways of the prophets. Ramadan is one of the five pillars of Islam, along with the profession of faith, praying, giving to charity and making the pilgrimage to Mecca.

Certain aspects of the celebration are found in most Muslim countries, for example, breaking the fast by eating dates. But there are also traditions that come with the event specific to each country. A few of our Observers tell us about their own Ramadan.

You can also tell us about Ramadan in your country. Firstly register on the site (here's an example of a profile page), and then post your comment. It will appear alongside a photo of yourself.

Marwa Sherbini murder: Egyptians mourn the “headscarf martyr”

Sophie Team Observers — Mon, 13 Jul 2009 11:08:25 +0200

Official court illustration of the stabbing.

A shocking incident in which an Egyptian woman was stabbed to death in a German courtroom has provoked outrage in her home country. The young mother, pregnant with her second child, was killed by the very man she was bearing witness against, himself in court for making Islamophobic insults.

Thirty-two-year-old Marwa Sherbini was four months pregnant when she was attacked in the Dresden court on July 1. She was stabbed 18 times, in full view of the attendees, including her three-year-old son. Her husband, Aloui Ali Oukaz, who tried to come to her aid, was also stabbed and then shot down by a policeman who thought him to be an attacker, leaving him hospitalised.

The story began in August 2008, when Ms Sherbini brought charges against 28-year-old Axel W., unemployed and of Russian origin, for having had called her a terrorist because she was wearing a headscarf. The right-wing extremist was charged 780 euros, but appealed the ruling. It was at the appeal that the incident took place.

Sherbini, a chemist, had been living in Germany since 2003.

Sex according to Oum Mohammad

Sophie Team Observers — Mon, 29 Jun 2009 18:48:20 +0200

A sexologist like no other is causing a stir in the Arab world. She may wear a niqab but Oum Mohammad has no qualms about giving her views on fellatio (entirely normal) and sodomy (absolutely no way!). Listen to what she has to say...

“Nobody forces me to wear the full veil, it’s my choice”

Sophie Team Observers — Mon, 29 Jun 2009 12:57:38 +0200

Posted on Flickr by "The Art Of Veiling".

The French parliament has launched an inquiry into how many women wear head-to-toe Islamic veils in France. President Nicolas Sarkozy used the occasion to spell out that "the burqa is not welcome in France", leading to concerns that he would ban it in public places. A French Muslim explains to us why she chooses to wear the sitar - the Saudi full-face cover - and why Sarkozy's comments frighten her.

Oum Abdallah (not her real name) lives in Marseille. She's worn the sitar for 10 years.

I'm French, I'm not of Arab origin. The rest of my family is either atheist or agnostic; none of them are Muslim. I decided to convert to Islam well before getting married. Until my wedding day I wore a headscarf but didn't cover my face, and from my wedding day onwards I've worn the sitar. I would have done so earlier but my parents disallowed it while I was still living at home.

I wear the full veil because it's what my religion wants. I dress like the prophet's wives; they're my role models. My husband didn't order me to do this, not at all. He leaves those decisions up to me, even if he does like that I cover up.

"People say that the women aren't respected in Islam, when in fact the religion is based on the well-being of women"

People say that the women aren't respected by Islam, when in fact the religion is based on the well-being of women - at home, as a wife and mother. How many Western women are victims of domestic violence in France today? The sitar is certainly not there to hide black eyes, like some stupid people think! It simply hides the beauty of a woman, which shows how highly they are regarded by Muslim men.

When I'm at home with my husband and my son I dress as I want. When my friends come over (most of whom wear the full veil too), I wear only a veil that covers my body. When I go out or am in the presence of men however, I always wear the sitar.

There's no problem at home. When we have friends over, my husband eats with the men and me with the women in another room... I pass him the plates to serve his guests. He's never seen my friends. Outside however, it can be tricky. People give me funny looks, sometimes insulting me. I leave the house as little as possible; only for things like going to the doctor, admin stuff etc.

"I miss swimming"

Life in France is not easy for a woman who wears the sitar and I dream of leaving. In Muslim countries, there are some beaches and parks especially for women. Of course I miss being able to swim. One of my friends goes to the sea sometimes. But she has to find a completely deserted beach and she swims fully dressed. That's no life. I know very well that in my case it's me who chose to adopt this way of living in France and not the other way round, but that's why I'd like to move to a Muslim country. It's not easy though - my husband would have to find a job first.

"We've talked a lot about if the burqa is banned"

We've talked a lot about if the burqa or the full veil is banned after Sarkozy hinted on it. We're really worried. That would mean that I couldn't leave the house at all! I've just been to get a new ID card, so I'm ok for the next ten years in that sense. But how would I go to the doctor?"

Time Out upsets both Muslim and LGBT communities

Sophie Team Observers — Fri, 19 Jun 2009 14:25:19 +0200

A cover from Israel's Time Out magazine, showcased at last week's Gay Pride parade, has caused quite a scandal. The image is a photograph, taken from behind, of Muslims kneeling to pray, along with the title "You see here a threat, we see here an opportunity" (we decided not to publish it, you can see it here). Have they gone a step too far?

The editors of Time Out reckoned they'd come up with a pretty funny title for this year's Gay Pride, held last Friday in Tel Aviv. Not everybody, however, was amused. Numerous Israeli and Palestinian associations have signed an open letter to the magazine, branding the title both racist and homophobic. They focus on the word "opportunity":

"Opportunities of what, we ask? ‘To f*** Islam'? ‘To f*** Muslims'? Is it because ‘they are a threat'? Or they are ‘exotic'? Is this an opportunity to ‘f***' the ‘enemy' and stab them in the back as they pray? Is anyone who turns their back an ‘opportunity' for rape?"

The magazine responded with an apology to "anyone who feels offended". Editor Itay Valdman explained to The Observers that the objective was "to mock and ridicule the unfortunately, widely held views of ‘Islamophobia' and ‘homophobia'. Obviously, we do not hate Muslims nor do we hate homosexuals. We simply love a good laugh, and we are surprised to learn that what raises our smile angers others".

Obama tackles the French on the hijab

Sophie Team Observers — Fri, 05 Jun 2009 19:08:14 +0200

When Obama said that Western countries should avoid "dictating what clothes a Muslim woman should wear", it could have been perceived as a personal attack in France. The hijab, along with all religious symbols, was banned in French schools in 2004. Read more...

The French government's decision to ban pupils from wearing "ostentatious religious symbols" caused a ruckus with hijab-wearers in the country when it was first enforced. Although the law remains in place five years on, Obama's highly critical comments on the subject come as a slap in the face for the French model. Our Observers who wear, or have worn the hijab, give us their opinion.

The statements in question:

The United States government has gone to court to protect the right of women and girls to wear the hijab and to punish those who would deny it.

It is important for Western countries to avoid impeding Muslim citizens from practising religion as they see fit -- for instance, by dictating what clothes a Muslim woman should wear. We can't disguise hostility towards any religion behind the pretence of liberalism.

I reject the view of some in the West that a woman who chooses to cover her hair is somehow less equal, but I do believe that a woman who is denied an education is denied equality.

Saudi religious police pick on Shiite women

Team Observers — Fri, 06 Mar 2009 11:50:32 +0100

"Hidden from Mutawa". Posted on Flickr by Moaksey.

A video posted on the Internet has aroused the wrath of Saudi Arabia's Shiite community. In the footage, a member of the religious police, a mutawa, can be seen filming women on a pilgrimage in Medina - an insulting gesture that has sparked demos and riots in several cities.

On February 20, about a thousand Shiite pilgrims were heading for the tombs of the prophets and the Sahabas (the Prophet's companions) in Medina when they were harassed by members of Saudi Arabia's religious police. The officers of the Commission for the Promotion of Virtue and the Prevention of Vice went so far as to film the veiled women. The gesture, interpreted as a grave provocation by the country's Shia community, prompted a series of protests in the eastern Qatif province, in which 17 demonstrators were arrested and several others were injured (watch the video).

The incidents come at a time of rising tension between the country's two main communities. On February 13, an institutional reform decreed by King Abdullah had already aroused the ire of Saudi Shiites. For the first time, the Council of Senior Ulema will be open to Sunni Muslims as well as Wahhabis, while Shiites remain excluded from the country's religious authorities.

In a country where fundamentalist Wahhabis - Islam's self-proclaimed "saved group" - make up the majority of the population, Shiite Muslims, roughly a fifth of the population, say they are the target of systematic discrimination. Our Observers on the ground describe the strained relations between the different Saudi communities.

Hijab blogger lays claim to style

Julien — Wed, 04 Mar 2009 13:00:26 +0100

Talk about the Islamic headscarf has long been the preserve of acrimonious debates over fundamentalism, women’s rights and freedom of expression. Blasting intolerance on all sides, Jana Kossaibati presses her right to dress as she pleases – and to do so hijab style.

Jana’s blog, which claims to be the UK’s first style guide for Muslim women, is one of a growing number of websites where women may find out how to mix cultural heritages from different Muslim countries to complement Western styles.

Jana says she first set out to fill a void: there was simply nothing around to tell women how to take care of their appearance while meeting Muslim requirements for dress.
Her blog offers tips for girls eager to anticipate seasonal trends and combine fabrics tastefully, without being ostentatious. But, she says, hijab style is not about what’s “hot” or the latest fad.

The "Jewberry" and the "Muslim mobile" – making a business out of religious handsets

Sophie Team Observers — Mon, 10 Nov 2008 14:14:51 +0100

One of our Observers in Indonesia has alerted us to the launch of Hidaya, a Muslim-certified mobile phone. Meanwhile, over in the US, the "Jewberry" - a Blackberry on which you can read the Torah - is selling like hotcakes.