Photo by Mania Karimiyanpour.
Four years after Mahmoud Ahmadinejad ordered a strict crackdown on "western fashion", there remains a district of Tehran which the president seems to have forgotten. One of our Observers there explains why Gucci, Versace and Hugo Boss are still standing in the capital.
Alireza is an artist and journalist from Tehran.
When the
Shah was toppled thirty 30 years ago and we found ourselves living in an Islamic
Republic, every slogan was about 'evil' western interferences; especially
concerning cultural issues. From infant school upwards the government tried to
brainwash youths into hating western culture.
But today, when you look at modern Iranian cities, it's plain to see that many of these official programmes have failed. One of the best examples is demonstrated in clothing and style. Despite the government's supposed crackdown on non-traditional clothing five years ago, people simply didn't pay attention.
Citizens use the internet to follow what's going on in the fashion world. Plus, there are underground fashion designers who hold private parties and catwalks in their homes. Obviously they are very careful about who they invite.
And then there's the fashion centre of Tehran, in the north of the capital, where there are around 100 designer shops (see photos below). Of course, they're supposed to be a secret - the government doesn't want outsiders (the West) to know or talk about this area. But neither has it ever got rid of it. No doubt they're yearning to close the shops down, but when they think of the financial gains in tax, can't bear to actually do it.
We have seen resistance to these famous brand boutiques in the past - both Basij officers and police often trying to bother them in some way; when the Benetton chain opened in 2006 it came under fire immediately. The Islamists called it a Zionist shop and attacked it during Operation Cast Lead on Dec. 31 2008.
Now, after Ahmadinejad made his speech about the chador and women's dress on Jan. 11, the boutiques are being targeted for their being ‘western'. These shops are going to be under immense pressure from now on..."
Read more about the fashion crackdown: "fashion police" make arrests in Tehran , and the boy who was forced to have his hair cut by the police.
Above, behind the cash register at one of the branches of Benetton in Tehran. Photo posted by "Peace With Iran" April 6, 08.
Below, designer boutiques in the fashionable district of northern Tehran. Photos by Mania Karimiyanpour.
Comments
Comment on article "Why Tehran can’t help but love Gucci"
Submitted by Nasrin (not verified) on Tue, 26/01/2010 - 08:36.Dear Julien,
Thank you for the article "Why Tehran can’t help but love Gucci"!
I should admit that the article you wrote is the reality in my country. I should also mention another reason that our people are going toward these fashions is another way to show their protest against the mullahs and people try to fight against this fundamental clerical regime.
Especially, we as the women of Iran, believe that we must be free to choose what to wear and what not to wear, and in Islam you can't find any where that people should be forced for what they should wear. These are the mullahs who have taken advantage of religion to force people to act and wear as these fundamental mullahs believe.
Regards,
Nasrin
Unregistered user
Reg: A visit to Tehran
Submitted by Nadee (not verified) on Sat, 13/02/2010 - 10:12.Dear Nasrin,
I am Nadee, a 24 year old girl from Sri Lanka (the small island near India). My husband is going to visit Tehran in about two weeks time to participate for a music competition. He's coming with a small group (all men) and I would be very thankful to you if you could give me some important hints I should make him aware of when he's there.
He eats only vege & egg foods and I am a bit concerned whether I should send him some food from here in case he can't find vege/egg food easily there. And what about the money? I read from another site where it has advised travelers to go to exchange centers to convert currency. Is that ok?
And are the people there able to converse in English?
Please let me know of the current situation of Tehran is safe for outsiders.
Thanking you,
Nadee
Unregistered user
Thanks Nasrin. Best,
Submitted by Team Observers on Mon, 01/02/2010 - 13:16.Thanks Nasrin. Best,
Team Observers